Jakarta is Indonesia's capital city, situated on the northwest coast of the island of Java. Many travellers who take cheap flights to Jakarta will be bound for other parts of Indonesia, and will stick close to the Jalan Jaksa, the backpacker street, for the duration of their stay. Jakarta is not an immediate charmer - its nickname is the Big Durian after all, and one of the kindest meanings is that Jakarta is an acquired taste - but the city has more than enough to engage the visitor for a few days.
This 24-hour city is Indonesia in microcosm - a fusion of Javanese, Indian, Chinese, and Dutch cultures. To take the pulse of the historic city, start at Kota and weave your way through the throng to get to Taman Fatahillah. This square is home to Jakarta’s finest museums - the History Museum, Fine Arts Museum and Puppet Museum.
Merdeka Square is flanked by the important government buildings such as the Presidential Palace (Istana Merdeka) and the Supreme Court. In the centre stands Monas, the national monument. The column, topped by a golden flame, was conceived by Indonesia's first president Sukarno. A lift whizzes tourists to the top from where there are sumptuous views of Jakarta - smog permitting.
When you have had enough of museums, head to Sunda Kepala and watch some old-fashioned toil. The old harbour has been a gateway for traders and sailors since the 1500s.