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For a country with just four million inhabitants Lebanon's allure is great, so great that it has drawn half that number in visitors over the past year or so. Tourists from other states in the Middle East and Europeans are taking cheap flights to Lebanon in greater and greater numbers as the troubles that have punctuated life there over the past few years recede.

Lebanon, perched on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, with Syria to the north and east and Israel to the south, has a long and fascinating history. Numerous civilisations (the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamlukes and Ottomans) have shaped it and the land is studded with historical monuments and archaeological sites. Within short distances - you can drive from north to south in less than three hours - you can see temples built by the Romans, mosques built by the Mameluks and hammams (or Turkish baths) built by the Ottomans.

It has natural wonders too. Lebanon is one of the few countries where you can bask on the beach in the morning and go skiing in the afternoon (ski resorts include Fa’ara and Faraya). Its first, long-distance hiking route opened in 2007. It extends along the Mount Lebanon range, from Qbaiyat to Marjaayoun, and follows in the footsteps of traders and shepherds through national parks, nature reserves and small villages.

Beirut is capital, a rebuilt city now with mosques and churches, busy markets, happening nightclubs (serving some of the world’s best wines - Chateau Musar, Chateau Ksara, Chateau Kifraya, and Masaya) and the timeless Corniche. The local population are world-class party people. A night out starts with dinner at 10pm and often finishes with breakfast the next day.

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Lebanon climate

Lebanon has a Mediterranean climate. The summers are hot and dry (humid along the coast, but moderated by the west wind) and the winters are mild and rainy. The mountainous areas of Lebanon are, naturally, colder than the coast. There's plenty of snowfall in the winter months - ski season - and some peaks are snowcapped year round. The khamsin, a hot wind from the Sahara, blows during spring and occasionally the autumn months.

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When to fly to Lebanon

There's not really a bad time to take cheap flights to Lebanon. The summer (June to August) is high season as this is when families in the region take their holidays. During the winter months temperatures along the coast are still mild although the mountainous regions are snowy. This is peak season for skiers. During the summer months hikers and quad-bikers take to the mountains. 

Peak Season: 

April to October is high season in the beach resorts and December to April is ski season. Other peak season times are Eid el Fitr (the Muslim holiday that marks the end of Ramadan. Ramadan occurs during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, usually August/September), Eid al Adha (The Festival of Sacrifice, November), Christmas, New Year and Easter (March/April). 

Off Season: 

In general, the weeks following New Year and between Eid al Adha (November) and Christmas are low season times in Lebanon.

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Lebanon insider information

  • Jeita Grotto is a limestone-cave system about 20km north of Beirut. There are two levels - the lower galleries, which are visited by boat and the upper galleries, seen on foot. Wonderful formations - stalactites, stalagmites, columns and mushrooms - abound in the upper chambers. A 500-metre boat trip along the lower chamber reveals more magnificent formations. 
  • The production of olive-oil soap is seeing a revival. The soaps can be picked up in souks as well as in shops known as the Artisana. Some of these shops are partnered to the government and they also sell traditional Lebanese crafts - jewellery, tiny statues of Phoenician soldiers, robes and towels.
  • The must-eats - K’nefi bi djeban (sweet, soft cheese covered and baked with semolina, coated with orange blossom syrup and placed in the bun, served hot and usually for breakfast), Lahm bi'ajeen (unleavened bread, circular in shape, topped with minced lamb and pine nuts, baked and seasoned with lemon juice and paprika). Kibbeh is made of ground lamb or goat mixed with bulgar wheat and deep fried. This is the most common version, others are fish kibbeh, pumpkin kibbeh, chicken kibbeh, potato kibbeh. Man'ousheh is a kind of a Lebanese pizza, topped with zaatar (dried, crushed thyme and sesame seeds, salt and mixed with olive oil) and baked. Other toppings are cheese and olives, tomatoes, and mint. Arak is the traditional aniseed drink. 
  • Pick up in the markets: rose petal or orange blossom jam and aromatic spices. 
  • The Békaa Valley, which lies between Lebanon's mountain ranges, was once known as “the breadbasket” of the Roman Empire. It's still the main agricultural region, producing wheat, tomatoes, olives, potatoes and grapes. The valley's major attraction - apart from the wineries - is the ruins at Baalbek. These enormous temple ruins honour Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus. The temple of Jupiter is the world’s largest and best preserved Roman temple 
  • Al-Shouf Cedar Nature Reserve extends from Dahr Al-Baidar to Niha Mountain. The largest of Lebanon's nature reserves, the slopes are covered in juniper and oak forests, but the three cedar forests (Maasser Al-Shouf, Barouk and Ain Zhalta - Bmohary) are the drawcard. The cedars are a protected national symbol and cannot be cut down.  
  • Rue Monot in Achrafieh is the going-out centre of Beirut. The bars, clubs and restaurants are jumping all week.

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Lebanon airports

Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport (BEY) (website: www.beirutairport.gov.lb) The airport, once known as Beirut International Airport, is situated 9km from the city centre.

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Passport/Visa

Australians and New Zealanders do not need to apply for an entry visa before they arrive in Lebanon. Tourist visas will be issued free at the point of entry for three months.

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Entry requirements

Passports should be valid for at least six months months beyond the date of entry of your visit to Lebanon. You will not be granted entry to Lebanon if you have visited Israel. This includes Egyptian or Jordanian stamps from border crossings with Israel as well as Israeli entry or exit stamps.

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In-flight reading

Beirut, I Love You: A Memoir

Zena el KhalilEl Khalil, a Lebanese visual artist, lived in Beirut during the July War (2006), where she wrote the acclaimed blog that was picked up around the world. This is the successor to that blog.

The Prophet

Kahlil GibranThe best-known work of the Lebanese artist, philosopher and writer. The Prophet has been translated into more than 40 languages. It's a collection of 26 prose poems, delivered as sermons by a wise man in an unknown time and place.

From Beirut to Jerusalem: One Man's Middle Eastern Odyssey

Thomas FriedmanPart autobiography and part journalism, Friedman is an American reporter who spent time in Beirut during the civil war. The latest version brings the book up to 1995.

A Hedonist's Guide to Beirut

Ramsay Short This excellent guide will let you know where to enjoy Beirut as the locals do.

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